St Arnaud- Coeliac tales from remote western Victoria

Date: June 2024

Location: St Arnaud

st arnaud coeliac

Main street of St Arnaud

St Arnaud.

It would be fair if you hadn’t heard of the town before or didn’t know where it was. I have grown up in Melbourne for some 20 years and had not heard of it until some six months ago. Nor had I any plans on visiting. That was until a work trip prompted it. 

St Arnaud’s is a small town located in the western portion of the Australian state of Victoria. With a population of just over 3,000, it feels like it is located quite literally in the middle of nowhere. Still, the town has a distinct feeling of life, and the main street remains lined with a variety of shops. There is no shortages of pubs either- there are three, though reportedly, there used to be seven before a few closed down.

Regional towns can be hit or miss when it comes to gluten-free options, and you never quite know what’s available until you arrive. Thankfully for those traveling to or through St Arnaud there are a few places that will ensure you can enjoy a nice gluten-free meal.

The Royal Hotel:

The Royal Hotel. Located on the main street of St Arnaud

Located in the heart of town, right across from the post office, the Royal Hotel is a fine establishment that serves hearty meals. Stepping inside, it feels a little like stepping back in time - high ceilings, an old wooden bar that stands proudly in the center, and an atmosphere filled with warmth and charm.

At first glance the menu is fairly sparse when it comes to gluten-free options. The only clearly marked choices are the chargrilled steak, lamb, chicken and calamari. However, while the salads are not labelled as gluten-free, I’m confident they could be modified, considering all the char-grilled meals come with the option of either a side of salad or veggies. 

I had the pleasure of spending two dinners here during their time in St Arnaud. 

On the first night, I ordered the chargrilled chicken. When I requested for it to be gluten-free, the staff immediately asked if I was coeliac. Upon confirming, the staff member explained that I could have salad or veg with my chicken, as well as chips, which I was ensured were cooked in a separate fryer. 

First night's dinner. Chicken, chips and veggies.

On the second night, I ordered both the chargrilled chicken with salad and chips, as well as the calamari.  This time, when I asked for chips, I was told that they were all cooked in the same fryer and would be cross contaminated. This took me by surprise, but after further enquiry, I learned that the availability of gluten-free chips depended on how busy the night was. On quieter nights they are able to keep one fryer gluten-free, but on busier nights they need to use both for regular food. 

I was extremely impressed by their honesty and understanding of cross-contamination. I can understand a place having to contaminate both fryers to meet demand on busy nights (particularly in a small regional town) and appreciated that they were upfront about it. 

As for the food itself, it was delicious. The chicken was the standout - it was cooked well and had a slight tang to it. The calamari were tasty, not too chewy, though perhaps a little floury in texture. The portion sizes were just right- not too much, but definitely not too little. And the prices? Outstanding. On my second visit, a meal of chargrilled chicken with salad and chips, plus the calamari and a glass of coca cola, cost $38. Very reasonable.

The Royal Hotel is a charming spot with friendly, approachable and knowledgeable staff who take gluten-free dining seriously. While you won’t find fine dining here, if you’re looking for a hearty pub meal, this is a terrific choice.

The second night's dinner. Calamari, chicken, chips and salad

The Shire Cafe:

The other notable gluten-free friendly place in St Arnaud is the Shire Cafe. Opened for breakfast and lunch, this can provide a great spot to grab a light meal. Nestled in a period building, it had plenty of space to sit and relax.

During this trip, I only had the chance to visit for breakfast, so I can’t speak for the lunch menu. The breakfast menu didn’t have anything explicitly labeled as gluten-free, but a small note down the bottom stating that most options could be made GF. I opted for the classic bacon and eggs. 

Both the bread and eggs were cooked nicely, and I was pleased to see a generous serving of bacon - especially since, at $17, it wasn’t the cheapest bacon and eggs I’ve had. That said, the meal was filling, and I was left feeling satisfied and ready for the long drive back to Melbourne. The desert cabinet also featured a whole row of gluten-free treats, with a variety of options. It was too irresistible to miss and as such I picked a passionfruit and lemon slice for later in the day. This was nice although in true gluten-free fashion, a little crumbly. 

Breakfast at the Shire Cafe

Other options:

St Arnaud does have an IGA which has a decent variety of gluten-free options.  While not the most extensive selection, it’s certainly enough to cover the basics.

Concluding Thoughts:

Overall, the trip to St Arnaud was highly enjoyable, and I was thoroughly impressed by the gluten-free options available. For a town that seems quite remote, it does have much charm.

Yours Sincerely,

Your Fellow Coeliac Traveller 

This article was correct at the time of writing - July 2024.